Day 547 18th January 2018
40 miles (Itabela to Itamaraju) Average speed 11.3mph Top speed 40 mph
A totally different day today. Yesterday I saw one car, one tractor, two lorries( one of which was broken down) and 6 motorcycles. Today I was run off the road by numerous tourist coaches, the odd lorry and many cars even though the road was clear!
I was awake at 3 and listened to the radio and podcasts. I got up at 7, showered and had brekkie of pastie and a fried cheese in breadcrumbs ball with three coffees in the cafe. Then I packed and left at 9.30 after putting air in my tyres. First up was a very fast descent followed by a very big climb to wake up the legs.
I stopped at another garage after a gruelling hour of ups and downs and had a litre of Pepsi, they keep asking if I need a glass? But I can almost down it in one from the bottle. I stayed for a while in a very comfortable chair and lots of people asked about my trip while I made use of their WiFi.
The afternoon turned out to be more of the same with lots of big climbs and big descents while trying not to be mowed down by lorries and worst of all coaches.
I eventually arrived in town after stopping off for coco verde geledo . I tried to avoid the hotels in the way into town but ended up in one on the other side on the way out. I didn’t fancy climbing all the way back up to find the one I was looking for so stayed here and walked back into town. I couldn’t find a restaurant but ended up in a very friendly bar with kebabs on the grill of which I took 4. I needed to refuel!
I added a couple of beers and finally went to a barber who cut off all my hair. You really can’t do a thing with it in this heat!!
I walked back to the pousada and had a beer with the locals playing pool before trying to go to bed.
It’s a very strange place Brazil, one minute you’re listening to music blaring out of cars with gigantic speakers and the next you’re hearing gospel choirs at full volume from churches that look like shops. It’s very odd listening to the Pentecostal church preaching while looking up at the massive hill I need to take on in the morning. It would be good to think that one day I could take advantage of God’s pilgrims by them letting me camp in their grounds but somehow I doubt it will happen unless I grease their palms – or psalms! One thing is for sure I won’t be getting to sleep any time soon with all this preaching going on!
Pousada tropical 40 reais.