Day 537 8th January 2018
34 miles (Camamu to B001 roundabout and police block near Itacare) Average speed 8mph Top speed 42 mph
I got up at 7 and had a walk to find breakfast, eventually I chose a place for an egg burger and coffee; really friendly staff and only 9 raeis. Then I showered, shaved and packed up, taking everything down the narrow stairs. Once away from the cobbled streets I took on the first of many hills for the day. I soon regretted not stocking up on food and drink in the supermarket as there were no shops for miles and the only bars served beer only!
After drinking all my water and eating the half pack of biscuits I had, I was desperate for water and calories, it came in the shape of a newly opened supermarket on the top of a hill in a tiny village. Guarana fizzy drink by the litre and jammy biscuits were the best I could find. I had been considering lighting a fire and cooking my reserve rations of noodles if I hadn’t found this oasis. I carried on having checked the map which said I had a couple of small climbs before the big one!
It lied, the next 4 were pretty big before I hit the long steep climb up from the river, but not before reaching 43 mph on the way down. It was two lanes on the way up so thankfully I had a bit of spare to traverse, I needed it as it was my toughest in Brazil. Drivers were hooting and waving encouragement and I was happy to make it, but now I needed to decide whether to visit Itacare.
I had a litre of Fanta to help decide and after I’d gone down a mile to find a guest house I turned back as I really didn’t fancy a 5 mile climb back up in the morning. I found Ello Pousada, which I should have asked at before and was quoted 100 raeis for a basic room. They let me use their WiFi, but there was not much else around, so I asked what I could have for 80 raeis and they showed me another room which was damp and very basic. Still I was exhausted and needed a bed and at least they had good WiFi and dinner.
Once again I am really struggling to order food. Whenever I order they seem to think I mean in an hour. But if I keep drinking while waiting for them to deliver it’s not going to end well. I thought my hostess was cooking for me an hour ago!! I need food. I’ve been on the road all day on a burger, some crisps and some cakes. Please feed me!!!
It was worth the wait time, a fantastic meal, but I just said to myself that I don’t need any more beer. That’s a first. I must be full.
There are 800 miles to go to get to Rio in a month’s time; an average of 26 miles per day, but if they are anything like today, it’s going to be tougher than it sounds.
The hills are relentless, just as you reach the top it’s time to go for it again to get up the other side of a big climb. I got through 34 miles today, but it’s hot and sometimes there are no shops or bars for miles on end. I need to carry more food and water but that makes it even harder with a litre of water adding another kilo. I’m not really moaning but I guess you all think I’m having a ball!!
On the plus side the Brazilian people are amazing and their encouragement really gives you a lift. I am still having a great time, while you are all freezing I’m dealing with 26 c in the evening.
Pousada Elllo 80 reais for a damp room!