Day 212 16th February
41miles (Bourbia to Zagora) Average speed 9.8mph Top speed 19 mph
A great start to the day after Dris had woken at 5.45 for prayers with the radio. I slept for a while then got up for tea. He and the boy had sardines, but I couldn’t face them at 6.30 so declined the offer. I would regret that later. I offered Dris 100 dirham for the food but he would not accept any money.
They left for work and I watched the sunrise and checked maps.me app but there was nothing but a mechanic in the village so 29 miles lay ahead of me without a shop! I had a boiled egg and 2 boiled potatoes that Georges made for me before I left but that was all. I wrapped up warm with tights and winter gloves as it was cold and misty.
The first hour was brilliant cruising along at 15 mph but then the wind picked up and halved my speed. I stopped for tea and made it on an open fire in a drainage channel and the tea was a warm welcome but how I wished I had stocked up on food in Foum Zguid! Due to the fact this part of the N12 is only a year old and passes through no villages – there are no shops or garages. So I had to knuckle down and put in some hard work on no food. The wind had really picked up now and it seemed that every turn in the road brought it head on into my face! I stopped quite a few times, once to change into shorts on the roadside. I’m not sure how that would have gone down if the man and wife had come past 30 seconds earlier on their scooter!!
I made an energy drink from the water I had left but sugar only did the trick for a while and when I started singing “Food, Glorious food” and dreaming about steak for lunch and seeing mirages of cafes up ahead I decided I needed to do something drastic. So I asked a guy on a scooter stopped on the side of the road if he had anything to eat and he became my saviour for the second time in 12 hours. Amazingly he had just returned from the shops in Zagora and he could obviously see my desperation on my face as he supplied me with a flat bread, cheese, a crispy sweet bar and a kid’s yoghurt. All out of a box on the back of his bike. I think his son may have gone without! I had been cycling for 3 hours and covered 30 miles when I met him and I really was running on empty.
Ride an egg to work was a bit of an understatement. Full of sugar and calories I was in such a good mood after my feast that I didn’t care about the wind or the slight incline any more and took in the next 8 miles with gusto. Arriving in Zagora I met another guy on a moped who chatted all the way into town, he was probably trying to sell me something, but he seemed impressed by my achievements. I arrived at the hotel at just after 1 and bought a big bottle of fizzy orange and some chocolate for after my check in. I showered and that felt really good and then chilled in the sun and did some catching up with the internet. Now I’m sunbathing on the terrace of ‘Prends ton temps’ riad back in Zagora. This adventure is incredible and the extremes of accommodation just unbelievable!
I did all my washing which took a while to dry and I had to wear swim shorts and t-shirt to the shops and almost to dinner, but I managed to wear some damp trousers and a jumper by then. I went to find the alcohol shop but once again it was shut, so I went to the souk and bought some nuts and then had a delicious hot dog with chilli sauce and olives.
Back to the hotel for a snooze before dinner but the waiter knocked before I had a chance. A Berber omelette with Moroccan salad and a fruit salad for dessert went down really well. The owner Berlaid was playing the lute and singing to entertain the two other people and myself while we ate. It’s amazing the contrast from last night where I was listening to the radio and sleeping on the floor! Another early night but much deserved!
Prends Ton Temps 100 dirham