Day 223 27th February
49miles (Er Rich to Midelt) Average 8.8 mph Top speed 28 mph
What an incredible day if a very tough ending!
Up at 8 and coffee in hotel but brekkie wasn’t forthcoming and I wanted the warmth of the sun. So I found a sunny spot and two large croissants to set me up for the day. Packed up and left and as I rode out of town Rain joined me and rode alongside, he spoke very good English and told me of his studies. It was really nice to have company for the first couple of miles and he was a really friendly guy. I told him how much I liked the town but he didn’t seem that impressed.
I was looking forward to getting through the first pass to see the view of the snow covered mountains that were visible through the gap. First though I needed to appreciate this side. I stopped to take photo of a stork feeding its young chick and was pestered by a boy begging.
As I came over the hill the mountains looked fantastic covered in snow but I wondered what lay ahead for me. The road was busy and drivers not as courteous as normal but I found that the embankment, although heavily cambered, had a good surface. It was a long straight road if a bit up and down. My first stop after an hour and a half was under a tree where I had a Coke and chocolate croissant while all the kids on their way to school stopped and stared at me in disbelief. They were all very polite. Then 3 frisky donkeys ran across the road and their young owner went chasing after them to round them up. I had a coffee in en N’zala with some kids who unusually didn’t hassle me. There was a very cute puppy which I stroked and the kids seemed surprised that anyone would show it affection.
Then back on the road I had a massive climb into the strong headwind which looked pretty daunting but a few people in cars were encouraging me upwards. It was a really long tough climb with the wind getting stronger. I also needed food and when I finally made it to just before the top I stopped in someone’s garden to have bread and cheese in the shelter of their house. No-one was in but I felt a bit odd trespassing! I’m sure they would have understood and as always I left no trace of having been there. Then I reached the Col Tizi ‘Ntalghaumt
and enjoyed the spectacular views. It was an incredible run down the other side but very cold and blustery as I was blown all over the road. I needed to wrap up well. It was really exhilarating after such a long climb up. Then at the bottom it went from one extreme to the other as I had been flying down the mountain only to hit a wall of wind at the bottom which reduced my speed to 3 and 4 mph. It was cold and the traffic was fast.
I was really struggling to stay on the road and had regular stops. One of which was at a petrol station 7 miles from Midelt. I had a coffee and cake before putting the hi-viz on the rear pannier as it was beginning to get dark. It was very difficult and I was getting desperate as every time I thought I was close there would be another climb into the wind. Then things took a turn for the worse as a farm dog chased me barking up a hill. I pedalled so fast even though I was exhausted and finally outpaced it. Thankfully , as it had big teeth! Eventually after a very gruelling journey I made it to Midelt where I found Hotel Ali, which was only 220 feet from the hotel I was looking for!
I checked in and parked the bike in the downstairs space that was being decorated. I had a cup of coffee with Ali and his daughters and a chat, then had the most wonderful hot shower. I googled bars in Midelt and discovered the Hotel El Ayachi just a short walk away. As I entered the metal detector went off but no-one questioned it, so I carried on to the bar where I had 3 bottles of Flag Special and watched the Leics v Liverpool game on tv. That first beer really hit the spot and made feel a little better after such a tough day. They served popcorn and tomato salad with each beer and I kept eating the lot so the barman brought me more. I often feel like a glutton when people are looking at my table manners but needs must. At half time I went in search of food and ended up in a dodgy cafe having a chicken tagine that looked like it had seen better days or even weeks! When in Morocco it’s best to get some food before 8-ish otherwise you end up with the leftovers. I went back to the hotel and took the extra beer I’d bought at the hotel up to the roof terrace to watch the stars and the lights of the city.
Hotel Ali 100 dirham