Day 202 6th February
46miles (Ait Souan to Oulad Othmaine) average speed 11.5mph Top speed 35 mph
What a fantastic day. I thought the ride two days ago was spectacular but I think today’s ride is the best yet. I woke at 3am a bit cold and put on a jumper, and woke again at 6 with mosque calling but the birdsong was beautiful. I got up at 8 and made tea with the cakes I bought last night, watching the almond blossom fall and listening to the birds. I then washed in the stream and made a fire to burn my rubbish .
Beautiful surroundings
I had my first outside toilet experience in Morocco but a tree helped with the squat! I then had to carry everything up to the road, which was exhausting and took two trips, staggered at halfway up. I said goodbye to the frogs in the swimming pool (not so sure about swimming!) and the dogs next door. Then took on the challenge of a big climb, which I’d been watching yesterday as the lorries struggled to get up.
View of the road across the valley
It turned out OK but was hard work in the heat. Luckily I managed to get some cover from the mountains on some of the switchbacks. I made it to the top in about 40 minutes and saw what looked like meerkats on the way. At the top was a girl sat at a table preparing lunch, not for me unfortunately. She had all her lacy undies on the wall drying in the sun, but her boyfriend was in the campervan so I carried on.
Drying washing
The view over the back of the mountains was even better than the one before and this time it was downhill all the way. I had to slow down as I was behind a truck and I didn’t fancy overtaking on the bends and its fumes were awful.
Road around the mountains
It was an incredible run all the way to Agdiz where I stopped for lunch of chicken sarnie chips and tuna salad, at first I sat in the sun to charge my phone but within minutes I was burning and realised just how hot it is when you are not moving! I got some water and decided to continue on the N9 instead of turning off for Foum Zguid. I’m glad I did because the fresh tarmac and the route along the palm-lined river was tremendous.
Palm trees line the river
There was the odd climb thrown in to keep me on my toes, but wonderful. I got to a town where a French guest house owner showed me around his place but tempting as it was, 300 dirham seemed a bit too much for me (the honeymoon suite with four poster also seemed a little too much!) so I bought some chicken and veg and carried on as the sun set behind the mountains. As I rode on the road disappeared again, but this time instead of a dustbowl I got covered in mud and water from the roadworks. I had been told by the butcher that there was a campsite on the right but I saw this place on the left and the guy showed me around and I asked how much to pitch my own tent in his beautiful gardens and he said I could pay whatever I normally would.
Camping in the gardens
We agreed on 50 dirham including shower and use of kitchen. He made me tea while I pitched the tent and then I had a great shower . He offered to cook my food with his if I helped out. I peeled some onions and shelled some peas while he did the rest. While it was cooking he and a couple of youngsters entertained us with bongos.
I met the woman from Montreal I ‘d seen in the bar last night and realised that’s where I knew him from. Dinner was lovely and I chatted to her about our adventures in Morocco. They went for a walk and I went to bed.
Another truly wonderful day. Probably the best in Morocco so far especially in terms of ride quality, road quality and the incredible scenery.