Day 202 6th February
46miles (Ait Souan to Oulad Othmaine) average speed 11.5mph Top speed 35 mph
What a fantastic day. I thought the ride two days ago was spectacular but I think today’s ride is the best yet. I woke at 3am a bit cold and put on a jumper, and woke again at 6 with mosque calling but the birdsong was beautiful. I got up at 8 and made tea with the cakes I bought last night, watching the almond blossom fall and listening to the birds. I then washed in the stream and made a fire to burn my rubbish .
I had my first outside toilet experience in Morocco but a tree helped with the squat! I then had to carry everything up to the road, which was exhausting and took two trips, staggered at halfway up. I said goodbye to the frogs in the swimming pool (not so sure about swimming!) and the dogs next door. Then took on the challenge of a big climb, which I’d been watching yesterday as the lorries struggled to get up.
It turned out OK but was hard work in the heat. Luckily I managed to get some cover from the mountains on some of the switchbacks. I made it to the top in about 40 minutes and saw what looked like meerkats on the way. At the top was a girl sat at a table preparing lunch, not for me unfortunately. She had all her lacy undies on the wall drying in the sun, but her boyfriend was in the campervan so I carried on.
The view over the back of the mountains was even better than the one before and this time it was downhill all the way. I had to slow down as I was behind a truck and I didn’t fancy overtaking on the bends and its fumes were awful.
It was an incredible run all the way to Agdiz where I stopped for lunch of chicken sarnie chips and tuna salad, at first I sat in the sun to charge my phone but within minutes I was burning and realised just how hot it is when you are not moving! I got some water and decided to continue on the N9 instead of turning off for Foum Zguid. I’m glad I did because the fresh tarmac and the route along the palm-lined river was tremendous.
There was the odd climb thrown in to keep me on my toes, but wonderful. I got to a town where a French guest house owner showed me around his place but tempting as it was, 300 dirham seemed a bit too much for me (the honeymoon suite with four poster also seemed a little too much!) so I bought some chicken and veg and carried on as the sun set behind the mountains. As I rode on the road disappeared again, but this time instead of a dustbowl I got covered in mud and water from the roadworks. I had been told by the butcher that there was a campsite on the right but I saw this place on the left and the guy showed me around and I asked how much to pitch my own tent in his beautiful gardens and he said I could pay whatever I normally would.
We agreed on 50 dirham including shower and use of kitchen. He made me tea while I pitched the tent and then I had a great shower . He offered to cook my food with his if I helped out. I peeled some onions and shelled some peas while he did the rest. While it was cooking he and a couple of youngsters entertained us with bongos.
I met the woman from Montreal I ‘d seen in the bar last night and realised that’s where I knew him from. Dinner was lovely and I chatted to her about our adventures in Morocco. They went for a walk and I went to bed.
Another truly wonderful day. Probably the best in Morocco so far especially in terms of ride quality, road quality and the incredible scenery.