Day 219 23rd February
53 miles (Merzouga to Erfoud) Average speed 11 mph Top speed 22 mph
What an eventful day!
Up at 8 for brekkie in the sun of bread, cheese. jam and marmalade with several coffees. I packed and showered, then found my way to the main road with only one stop to push through the sand. For some reason for the first time on the whole trip I crossed to the wrong side of the road! I think it was all the rally cars distracting me, but it passed without incident. Then there was a really close shave as the R4L in front of me skidded and swerved to avoid a boy running across the road. He was a very lucky boy but far enough in front that it didn’t affect me.
Then I stopped in the petrol station which has a very comprehensive supermarket. I bought a Twix and a new battery for my speedo but not before a game of head tennis football with a very happy guy outside. Then inside I met two Spanish guys from Granada who were travelling in a Fiat Panda 4×4.
The tailwind I was hoping for was not as strong as I would have liked, but I still made good progress. I turned on to the R702 through Hassilabied and I was on a new road which wasn’t on my map, so much so that the milestones had no writing on them so I had no countdown to Erfoud.
The road was brilliant apart from speeding cars and lorries, the ones coming in the opposite direction caused the most problems with the wind and sand blowing in my face. The tailwind was coming from my left side and wasn’t as strong I’d hoped for but still enough to help me up the hills. After a few turns I stopped at one of the many fossil shops for a freezing cold Sprite and a Snickers and the Twix . I needed a sugar boost for the next ten miles into town. I met two women who asked for a drink and I gave them an orange as I was carrying 4 and they were heavy. Then after a couple of hills I arrived in Erfoud with the lovely tarmac roads and lots of life.
It was strange to be back in a big city. I found a cafe with wifi and a very helpful guy who spoke English who directed me to the campsite that people in a car, which had pulled alongside me earlier, had recommended. Along the way there were a few riads and beautiful as they were 400 dirham was out of my range. The campsite charged 75 but once I’d seen around and the quality of showers etc it was worth the money.
I spoke to the boss and as he had a beer I asked where to buy some? He recommended the hotel Tafirat in town, but said to make sure they only charged me 15 for a beer. So I set off to check out the town. With no luggage and the wind behind me, not to mention the carrot of a beer, I was flying along overtaking everything in sight. Then as I overtook an elderly gent on a bike another one pulled across the road straight into my path. I swerved off the road to try and avoid him but he just kept going and smashed into my rear pannier, which thankfully took most of the force. I didn’t come off the bike and somehow kept it upright. Three more older men came to my defence and shouted loudly at the guy but he just wasn’t looking and apologised. I carried on and passed many more on the way but a bit slower and with my lights on.
In town I went in search of a shoe repairer as my shoe was falling apart again. I found one in the market and sat down while he went to work. While his magic glue was setting I also asked him to have a look at the hole in my pannier and he stitched it back together with needle and thread. Then I found a shop to buy some deodorant before going to the hotel for a couple of beers. They were reasonable at 15 dirham so I took a few back to the campsite. First I went for pizza and watched the first half of Spurs v Gent. I avoided any mishaps on the way back and overtook plenty more cyclists . On arrival I went to the reception to watch the rest of the footy and was joined by Hakan and his nephew who supplied me with red wine and we chatted about his family in Barcelona. I went to leave after Spurs were knocked out but they insisted I stay and chat. Back at the tent I had crisps and beer and watched the stars.
Camping Karla 75 dirham