Day 322 6th June
73miles (Sodero to Norrkoping) Average speed 11.5 mph Top speed 29 mph
I was awake at 7 and went off to see if the fire was still alight, the ashes were hot enough to get it going again, so had three cups of tea and toasted burger buns with pate using a knife as a skewer. It was a wonderful warm sunny morning looking out across the lake with lots of bird life. Within no time my shorts had dried and the solar charger had boosted my battery to full. As I packed the bike in the bathing hut I thought it was about time to take the plunge as I wouldn’t have a better opportunity to enjoy a naked morning bathe, so I stripped off and walked down the ramp to have a very refreshing dip.
Skinny dipping
What a brilliant start to the morning – modesty preserved
The sun warmed me up and I was dry in no time. Just as I was about to leave 2 cars arrived carrying people with deckchairs ready to enjoy their day by the lake, fortunately I was dressed by then.
As I left, I had to check out a building to see if it would have been a better overnight camp, but it was dirty, so I had been better off in my tent. It’s amazing that after the perfect camp your mind is still looking to see if it could have been any better. This is a recurring theme throughout the trip whether looking for a camping spot or the best place for lunch.
I took the first left into the E680 through Sodero which turned into one of my favourite roads so far, even though it was a shingle track from about half a mile onwards. The hour of the day I spent going through marvelloous countryside with beautiful woodland and lakes.
Country hills and dales
The road meandered around from lake to lake with small hills in between which meant you could carry your speed from one downhill with enough momentum to get back up the other side. It passed tiny villages with stunning houses and one had a sign warning drivers of children and snails.
Brian the Snail wondered whether his relatives were really wild, even feral, if they needed a special warning sign
As well as being beautiful scenery the track kept you alert and some points were tricky with deep shingle or occasional tree roots to keep you on your toes. It was so hot and as I took my first rest I stripped my shorts off and sat on a rock by an opening in the woods. I had some chocolate and a monster drink and was so pleased to witness my first elk. It was about 100 metres away, a beautiful creature, maybe not as tall as I’d expected, but it could have been a youngster. Immediately after, as I took a fast bend in the road, a large stag was directly in front of me in the middle of the road. It was surprised to see me and ran into the woods and alongside me for a few hundred yards. Earlier I’d seen a whole herd in a field but this one was a majestic beast.
At the end of the road I turned left and took the road to Greby where I mistakenly bought an alcoholic ice pop called nice, strawberry daiquiri supposedly, and at 5% stronger than the beer!
A grown up ice cream! My companion was just waiting to get his.
Part two of the day didn’t take too long as I was flying along the A35 at 29 mph all the way to Lengham where I joined the E4N which was also quick but the wind not quite so generous. I needed to change my shorts to a dry pair and did so well away from the road in the woods, without realising the high speed train line beside me, but I don’t think anyone noticed as they flew past me.
Part three of the day was not quite so successful: I stopped at a garage at Norsholm to see if I could contact Maria and see if it would be OK to stay with her mum, but the wifi wasn’t great so I carried on to Macdonald’s . On the way I had a late lunch at Lofstad castle and museum at a picnic table, after the lakeside spot proved no good. The museum had lots of horse-drawn carriages.
Carriage museum at Lofstad Castle
When I got to Macdonalds it turned out that Maria’s mum lives in Nykoping not Norrkoping, which is another 36 miles further on. So it was time to find a good camping spot. I passed a possible place but needed food so carried on. There was a campsite but it was full of fit camp and loud music with no-one at reception and no prices so I carried on. There was a sign nearby saying no camping except on official sites but I went in search of a good spot.
I headed north and ended up at Ingersite, a big shopping centre and then into an island that was full of industrial sites. I rode around for ages hunting, but eventually I found a fishing spot near the town, which meant I’d wasted a couple of hours and ended back in Norrkoping where I’d started. I’d gone round in a big circle and became very frustrated at wasting so much time. I didn’t have dinner til 9 and as no-one had bothered me I lit a fire and had a beer by the river. Not the best end to an otherwise wonderful day but at least I got some sleep.