Day 461 – Tangier Med to Chef Chouan

Day 461                                                  24th October

64.75 mountainous miles.(Tangier Med to Chef Chouan) Average speed 9.1 mph Top speed 33 mph

What a fantastic day. One of my longest and toughest in terms of climbs for a while.

I was up at 7 after not sleeping too well due to the two strong coffees while watching footy. I had a shower before the Germans rose (one up to the English). There was no one around in the restaurant so I packed up and went to the Aljazeera cafe I’d frequented with Kamal. As I had a new phone I couldn’t get the WiFi but enjoyed the coffee. When I asked for some bread from the counter the guy said that it wasn’t fresh so best not to. The Moroccans are so nice and honest even when they are losing money! In the five minutes it took me to get there I’d already had people waving and encouraging me. Then I bought some fresh bread and fake la vache (laughing cow) cheese and decided to eat it after I’d got some miles on the clock. I stopped after 45 mins and bought some orange pulpa and strawberry biscuits. It is great to return to a place you’ve been before as you know your way around and your favourite foods.

Then the climbing started in earnest. The scenery was amazing and I was joined in the road by a donkey at one point.

I went past many lakes and even a royal palace which had a large stables. It was very windy and some of the time it was helping. There were birds of prey and rivers as well as the occasional truck but the buses came closest. When I got to Tetouan I checked the possible options and decided that as I would be turning right and have the wind behind me I would carry on especially as I didn’t fancy the big capital city much.

At a garage I had a Sprite and recharged my energy with a strawberry biscuit and then there were roadworks and the right lane was not open to traffic, but that didn’t stop a few drivers and one cyclist with a snail from taking advantage of the empty road and relatively fresh tarmac.

I stopped for lunch after another big climb and asked if they had a room, but the hotel wasn’t open yet. I wondered if they’d let me camp, but chose to have a delicious chicken tagine for 45 dirham with olives and potatas bravas and push on to find a camping spot later as it was only 3.45. I was soon past a forest which could have been a decent spot, but with so much roadside rubbish and the fact it was early and I was feeling good despite the hills, I continued. I’m sure it would be OK to camp but sometimes it’s difficult to tell whether it’s farmland or private. I stopped to have another Sprite at a busy roadside bar and chatted to a local youngster who assured me that the road kept going up and up. By now I was getting hot and tired and there were many false summits until I finally reached the top and rode down into al Hamra, but asking at a garage only produced offers of hash and staying in the owners house.

So I kept going on a fantastic run downhill which then provided me with a freshly tarmacked wide road. At the bottom there were lots of lorries and construction work going on and the only place to camp was beside a river, but upon investigation it turned out that somebody was already using it for themselves and with all the rubbish and the proximity of the main road and a bridge, I chose to climb the steep hill to this hotel in the outskirts of Chef Chaoun. The map read 1.8 miles uphill and it was now getting dark so I put on my lights and made the final push. It was tough hot sweaty work but worth it in the end. The hotel was lit up by a hotel sign or should I say a hote sign as it had no l lit.

I hoped that it was not full but it turned out I am the only guest. The owner was very welcoming and friendly and spoke good English. He offered me an ensuite room for 250 but then one for 150 which we agreed at a price of 120. I waited 30 minutes for the water to warm up by chatting and drinking tea with him before showering and rejoining him to watch footy and eat bruschetta. Man City v Wolves went to penalties so we had plenty of time to chat. By 10.30 I was definitely ready for my very comfortable bed and happy after a very challenging day!!

Hotel Toraghin 120dirham + 60 for brochettes and Coke and tea.